Overwater bungalows are invariably expensive. One exception: The Coconuts Beach Club, in Apia on the Samoan island of Upolu. Their fales run $349 a night -- about one-third of what you'd normally pay for a suite on stilts. That means the rooms are basic; you'll get a king bed, a stone bathroom, fab views and not much else. But it's $349 a night. At that rate, you could buy yourself some 1,000-thread-count sheets and Aveda toiletries to take along for the journey. Voila; instant upgrade.If you have land legs, their treehouse suites are $239 and their standard garden rooms are $199. But I have to admit, there's a special place in my heart for Mika's Old Apartment, an empty room in the staff housing. For $60 a night, you can stay in what the hotel calls "definitely our worst accomodation." You'll be next door to the GM, who sings in the shower. And you can only book through the website, because "We would be too embarrassed to have a Travel Agent know that we are selling this room." I always appreciate truth in advertising.
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